Stafan Cooke becomes its own teenage dream for AW21
这家总部位于伦敦的品牌发布了他们的最新系列“银铃”(Silver Bells),
这个系列充分体现了自信和严肃,整个系列青春的声音听起来强劲、响亮而清晰。
Filled with looks that ooze confidence and severity, the London-based label’s latest collection, Silver Bells, rings strong, loud and clear.
对于任何一个关注时尚的人来说,回想起自己十几岁时的样子,很有可能都会脸红。
尽管如此,这仍然是一个值得尝试的方向。
你可能会注意到:“在某一时刻,你只是想通过服装展现自己严厉且极端的另一面。”斯特凡·库克(Stefan Cooke)的联合创意总监杰克·伯特(Jake Burt)说,他和同名品牌创始人最近搬到了伦敦的新工作室。
“我觉得在我们14、15岁的时候,我们非常注重造型。非常严肃——超紧的牛仔裤,尖头鞋,蓬松的头发……”Stefan害羞地回忆道,“看起来真的很糟糕,但是我觉得这就是我们想要的样子。
”我想这就是我们想在这个系列中做的。”
For any fashion fan, there’s a good chance that thinking back to the looks you used to pull in your mid-to-late teens will make the blood rush to your face with embarrassment. Still, it’s an exercise well worth doing. You’ll likely notice that, “at one point, you just want to become the most severe, extreme version of yourself through clothing,” says Jake Burt, the co-creative director of Stefan Cooke, over Zoom from the new London studio that he and the label’s namesake founder have recently moved into. “I feel like when we were 14 or 15, we were very committed to a look. And it was pretty severe — super tight jeans, pointy shoes, big hair…” Stefan bashfully reminisces, “looking really awful, but I think there was something really amazing about that commitment to how we wanted to look. I think that’s kind of what we wanted to do with this collection.”
他们的AW21《银铃》(Silver Bells) 系列,或许最好被视为一个关于成长的故事——是对那些青少年已经成为的男人的深刻的致敬。
在这这个系列里,作为青少年,通常是更强调自我意识的时候。
斯蒂芬·库克(Stefan Cooke)标志性的设计——格伦格子和犬齿花纹羊毛外套、镂空菱形图案、费尔岛(Fair Isle)厚实的针织衫,以及排水管式牛仔牛仔裤——将这一理念展现的淋漓尽致。
这些服装在这里被重新配置为一个有方向性、独特的、最重要的是,为当代男装衣橱提供了新鲜的建议。
Silver Bells, the pair’s AW21 collection, is perhaps best seen as a coming of age story — a poignant, refined homage to the men those teenagers have become. Here, the sense of conviction that, as adolescents, is often fuelled by a certain naïveté is supplanted by a cultivated self-awareness. The hallmarks of the Stefan Cooke vocabulary — glen plaid and houndstooth wool coats, slashed lozenge motifs and chunky Fair Isle knits, and drainpipe denim jeans — are stuck to, though there’s no stubbornness here. Rather, it demonstrates the pair’s sturdy awareness of the potential of the staples they’ve developed in just six or so seasons, reconfigured here into a directional, distinct and, above all, fresh proposal for a contemporary menswear wardrobe.